Friday, April 20, 2012

the Devilicious Food Truck

I'm scooping no "news" in the foodie world when I say that Food Trucks (or Gastrotrucks) are a "big thing" lately. Many have talked about their rise as an artifact of the "Great Recession" - the cost of starting a new restaurant concept can be prohibitively expensive in any climate, but with the recent additional crunch on credit, etc., it can be down right impossible. But a truck, on the other hand, is a relative bargain. Another recent food trend that seems to have a similar root in the economy is the rise of "New American" cuisine - upscale comfort food with a foundation of humble fare augmented by modern techniques and fusion sensibilities. It's no wonder, then, that these two sensibilities have combined in several excellent examples of New American - mobile style. I've experimented with several of these, starting with the MIHO Gastrotruck, which was merely interesting, to my latest favorite indulgence: The Devilicious Food Truck.

 I say indulgence, because that's what it is, especially in the context of this blog - this is the kind of food I could easily "overdo". It isn't exactly cheap. It most certainly isn't healthy. It is, however, absolutely revelatory. As has become the custom with New American, we can find ourselves being surprised by just how different and good something simple can be. All my life, I've been a huge fan of the BLT.  As a Californian, I should really say the BLAT, since until recently I've been utterly convinced that any BLT sandwich consumed without the addition of Avocado constitutes a missed opportunity at best, or a crime against bacon, at worst. Yes, I get it, augmenting the wonderfully fatty/saltiness of bacon with the fatty/creaminess of avocado seems redundant to some, and impure to others, but you'll never convince me otherwise. Or at least, I thought not, until I was smacked by the Devilicious BBBLT.
Immediately after tasting said BBBLT (the extra B's are for the extra bacon), I felt compelled to text my wife and tell her that all future BLTs must include cheese and a fried egg. And it's true. Add in some Red Onion and spicy mayo to the rest of the usual combo, and it's truly one of the greatest sandwiches ever made. As you'd expect, the soft yolk sauces up the sandwich nicely, so this is a messy one to eat, but more than anything this sandwich is about richness.  As is my way, I've experimented with this at home since then, and I've decided that this is a perfectly legitimate, though decadent, variation on the BLT. The ANSI-standard BLT may be lacking when compared to the CA-approved BLAT, but the BBBLT is as over the top as you can imagine.  Adding in truffled parmesan fries and a mexi-Pepsi or Pellegrino Limonata will put you well past $10, but it's money well spent on flavor.  I do feel compelled to throw in an extra walk along the canyon after one of these meals, though.

 Since that first visit I've tried several more examples of this "Mobile New American" and decided that this is my most dangerous food genre to date. This is the food that will make moderation so difficult.

If you'd like to tempt yourself as well, the Butter Poached Lobster Grilled-Cheese pretty much epitomizes temptation.  The Cubano is also not to be missed.  Purists take heart - you won't miss the roll in favor of the grilled sliced bread.

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